In my last post I mentioned a quick visit to Domaine du Plican and since then I had the pleasure of interviewing the owners Franois Duvivier and Guillaume dAngerville, as well as tasting six of their wines for the 67 Pall Mall series of masterclasses. In my Jura Wine book, I am proud to have maps by the talented wine educator, blogger and map-maker Quentin Sadler. However, he has been the main winemaker for a few years, while Raphal runs the vineyards and Adeline the sales side. Some background first. Producers | Jura Wine, Food and Travel France.fr reveals the secrets of these multifaceted wines born at the foot of the Jura Mountains. Cooking competitions, tastings and auctions of old vintages are on the program before the opening of the new vintagethat is, the barrel containing the matured wine. I had heard several good reports and was excited to try it, especially as I know the restaurant building, which is always enjoyable to eat in, overlooking the cute Cuisance river. But its the unique native grapes of the area that I find most intriguing. Try it with tarragon butter chicken. Made exclusively from the Savagnin grape, it is kept in oak barrels for at least six years and three months, without any intervention from the winegrower. Rumour has it that Domaine Rolet in Arbois will also stay in family hands, this is yet to be 100% confirmed, but could be good news. To see how Wine-Searcher uses average pricing and professional wine critic scores on this page, Adeline Chatelain and her son Marin Fumey outside the tasting room in Saint-Laurent Wink Lorch. New vignerons have emerged, almost all of them choosing to work organically; wineries have changed hands; newer producers have evolved and there have been mixed vintage fortunes, as so often. Of a similar age, Lucien knew Pierre Overnoy well and although many of their vineyard and winemaking methods were different, like Pierre he remained adamant that indigenous yeasts were essential to making good wine. As ever, it was hard to get close to some of the star vignerons for tasting, but by going very early on the morning of the trade day, I managed to taste with Anne and Jean-Franois Ganevat for the first time in a while. Some of his 2014 wines have been recently released, others will take longer, notably the Vin Jaune for release no earlier than 2021, but it is resolutely Jacques who will shepherd them to bottle as dAngerville did not buy his stocks. Also influenced by Pierre, Domaine de la Tournelle was one of the earliest to make a Savagnin Ouill from 1994, named Fleur de Savagnin. For the electronic versions, click here to order on Kindle or click here for iBooks. It is then put in a clavelin bottle, a special 62-centiliter (21-oz) bottle, the volume of one liter (34 oz) of Savagnin remaining after being barreled. To obtain the latter, the wine is in contact with air, creating a thin layer of yeast on the surface. My absence here, many of you will already be aware, has all to do with dealing with personal loss (my partner Brett Jones sadly died in April 2018) and hard work towards personal achievement, with the writing and publication last July of my second book, Wines of the French Alps. 87 / 100. If you want the book signed, then please state this in the comments, dedications are not always possible. The grapes used to make Crmant du Jura must therefore be harvested by hand and then transported in perforated crates to prevent their juice from oxidizing. Two examples: new plantings are from massal selections from Domaines Pignier and La Pinte; and their manager Rmi Treuvey, is himself a Jurassien from a long line of vignerons. And now to the good news. He was and remains a hard act for his son Vincent to follow, but the latters wines are going from strength to strength in quality, still aged in their beautifully maintained Alsace foudres among other oak barrels. Vins jaunes are particularly coveted in their more mature vintages at the moment, especially those that date from 1980 to 1990. He has ambitious plans to move the family estate towards export sales and is hoping to fully convert the domaine to organics and biodynamics in 2022, if all goes well. Whilst Savoie doesnt have the same level of notoriety or desirability as the Jura, it has all the right elements to become so: fine terroir, regional specialties, a great variety of native grapes and a handful of high-quality producers. This tiny French region produces wonderful wines and is home to Comt cheese Jura wine veteran Jacques Puffeney has announced that he has sold the vines from his namesake estate to the dAngerville family of Volnay, as part of a retirement plan. Lucien Aviet (known as Bacchus) of Caveau de Bacchus died on 28th May, aged almost 84. Whereas there are wonderful traditional Savagnins and Vins Jaunes, and some fascinating Chardonnays (Cuve des Docteurs after the medical students who helped Lucien with his first harvest), it is their Trousseau cuves, named by Lucien Cuve des Gologues in homage to the geologists who helped him select the best terroirs, that have been among the most wonderful expressions of this grape variety. Best Natural Wines from Jura | MORE Natural Wine Pascal was often there to greet and sweet talk the media over dinners, his support for the Jura allied with his openness and frankness did the job perfectly. Before long he was convinced that he wanted to make wine there. Wine Eater Essays How Chefs Brought Jura Wine to the United States Sommelier darlings today, the wines of the Jura were once completely ignored in this country. Anne Ganevat pours samples to eager and early-arriving trade participants at Le Nez dans le Vert. Enjoy it alone to start a party, or with crudits with chipotle aoli. A very special vin jaune that would be brilliant with smoked haddock pie. My Facebook stream abounds with photos and comments from vignerons who have lost some or all of their potential 2017 crop. I have little direct contact in the region right now, and it is very early days for Evelyne, but she has indicated to me that, while obviously devastated, she will carry on with all that the pair built up together. Ive known this sulphur-free Ploussard from Domane de la Tournelle since the 2003 vintage. Isle of Jura Distillery Turas Mara Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Isle of Jura, Scotland. Before I left Saint-Laurent, I went to see Jacques, who I had last seen some years ago. La route des vins du Jura sur le chemin entre Besanon et Lyon by Pedro Kok. Of the reds I tasted, I fell for several blends (not all AOC) including 2016s (mainly still in tank or barrel) from Domaine Labet the predominantly-Gamay Mtis; Alice Bouvots Zerlina, which is a Pinot/Trousseau blend; and the Vieux Cpages from Raphal Monnier (Ratapoil), all almost ready to bottle. With Emmanuel Houillon, I tasted his lovely lemony, 2010 Savagnin (topped-up), which is still in foudres he plans to bottle some of this later in the year. Their son, Marin Fumey has officially partnered with his parents on the estate since rushing back after harvest in Australia (and previously South Africa) in April in the middle of lockdown. These three kinds of production all feature in the ranking, with connoisseurs placing top bids from experienced markets including France, Hong Kong, the US, Belgium, Sweden, and the UK. Jura Wine Region - Decanter in popularity. When it reaches between 14.5 and 17 alcohol, the wine is put in barrels where it will age for three years before being tasted. More posts are to come about both big and small producers that Ive revisited or tasted with recently, and in the meantime, I hope you are able to enjoy some Jura wines wherever you are. Until the frost, the vine development was about three weeks earlier than average. Quick links Jura wine reviews Jura at a glance Area under vine - 1,950ha Production - 11 million bottles Wineries - 230 They are then pressed in whole bunches. There was a palpable sense of panic in July as the vines simply stopped functioning, shades of 2003 except that this time there had at least been some winter and spring rainfall. It is said that a pelican was brought to Arbois by Maximilian of Hapsburg in the 15th century as it was a favourite creature of his wife, Marie de Bourgogne. Best Value Jura Wine - Wine-Searcher It is to Pascals great credit that he always appeared to treat Evelyne as his equal in their business, especially in winemaking she was also qualified as an oenologist. The 2023 iDealwine auction barometer is released! The campaign is doing well and is nearly 75% funded, but I hope to exceed the target book costs are always greater than they seem. Forgive me that this blog site is so out-of-date and hard to read on portable devices. The room was full of sommeliers and enthusiastic educators in particular, as well as retailers, and it was great to see the Jura vignerons practice their English in relaxed mode away from home. Just because the Jura vineyards stretch over "only" 80 km (50 miles), it doesn't mean they are less rich and varied. Profound and textured, with bready, savoury, nutty layers and a bone-dry finish. A chance to learn about the Jura wine region, not just from my book, but through interviews and webinars Ive done recently. The wine remains a favourite (or possibly the favourite) Poulsard of mine, and I adored a bottle of 2018 shared over a meal in Arbois last summer. Producers Wine regions in Jura 6 growing regions L'Etoile AOC Ctes du Jura AOC Arbois AOC Chteau Chalon AOC Crmant du Jura AOC Macvin du Jura AOC Description to Jura The wine-growing region lies in the east of France between Burgundy and Switzerland. I plumped for the Ploussard Ive loved for so many years, but hadnt tried for ages: luva from Domaine de la Tournelle 2018, vinified just 100 meters away from the restaurant, hit the spot so perfectly, I was falling back in love with the Jura all over again. Vin Jaune is famous even though it represents only 5% of the production in the Jura. Oddly the vignerons worried about quantity were those who farm conventionally, or in lutte raisonne or so-called sustainable agriculture, rather than those working organically. He founded Domaine de la Tournelle in 1991, and was running it full-time from 1995, taking on the cellars in Arbois, to be joined a couple of years later by Evelyne. The Jura vineyards. I wish all the Jura vignerons the strength to keep on going through all these challenges. Its interesting to note that these three domains, as well as Ganevat, have performed well with their ouill and red cuves. Pedro told me he had some prints made, which he offered to friends in return for bottles of Jura to keep him topped up during lockdown a lovely swap. Having used the cellar of Chteau de Chavanes since taking over in 2012, Domaine du Plican is building its own winery on the main vineyard site, complete with a cave Vin Jaune which should be finished next year. D'Angerville's grandfather was a great champion of . I will also share news on two newer Jura organic vignerons, Bruno Bienaim and (the longer-established) Philippe Chtillon, not featured in my book, plus a revisit to a couple of important domaines, in the Arbois area, with recent changes in management. ). One new star on the export mission for the first time, was the biodynamic Domaine Ratte and as I had limited tasting experience with them, I tasted their 2015 range, which showed very well. This is an estate to watch. Vins de paille come next, a rare example of dessert wines finding themselves among the highest-priced cuves followed by reds and ouill whites. Wink has been a writer and educator on wine for many years. The existing cellars of Domaine du Plican are becoming a little cramped. Domaine Cavarodes Jura. In New York, I launched a Kickstarter campaign to raise funds for the book, as well as providing the motivation of hundreds of people waiting for it! The pelican is the symbol of the goregous little Jura town of Arbois. The problem is not exclusive to the Jura, but widespread in France and other northerly wine countries. The pair built up a steady local reputation for their wines, gradually increasing their vineyard area to 17ha, with more area to be taken over soon. The 7th edition of Juras organic wine fair Le Nez dans le Vert in late March was very well attended once again. The best wines of the Jura | Wine | The Guardian Get the very best of our recipes delivered direct to your home every month. I found a bargain Savagnin Ouill 2012 from Grard and Christine Villet, perfectly smokey, aged in old foudres for two years, ideal to enjoy over the next few years. D'Angerville set off on a mission to discover the Jura vineyards. If Burgundy is mainstream, Jura is offbeat, with grape varieties such as Savagnin and Trousseau, and wine styles such as vin jaune offering an original journey. Jura wine - Wikipedia Marin made just one barrel from their two rows of Savagnin Rose vines. The producer will not stir the wine during the barrel ageing, but it is vital to control it and do regular tastings. It hits the spot. The production of this sweet wine with aromas of candied fruit, honey, caramel and marmalade follows very precise specifications. We believe in you, your individualistic wines and your fabulous region and thank you for your work and dedication. White, red, yellow, straw-colored or sparklingdo you know the wines of the Jura? These days, most organic growers work with a bare earth principal, ploughing up the weeds and working the soil when needed and this meant no competition for water. Some designate geographic boundaries of appellations; others indicate the best vineyards or producers; a few will show features such as altitude; and there are also ambitious maps that attempt to combine the above. Wine samples have been available to go along with these webinars for delivery in the UK and Europe. The main Jura map provides an indication, rather than an exact rendition, of vineyard areas and appellation boundaries, in relation to local towns, rivers and importantly altitude. I will consider how to change this with minimal time and impact, or transfer everything to my main Wine Travel Media site. As Jacques used his personal name on his labels and not that of a domaine, the name on the label evidently stops with his last vintage the 2014. These men are two wine legends. This was his very last vintage before passing on these vines to Domaine du Plican, who had already taken on the rest of his vineyards. When, after the blisteringly hot and early 2003 vintage, he made his first no-sulphur-added, carbonic maceration cuve of Poulsard, rebaptised Uva Arbosiana to reflect the old name of the grape, I was surprised and won over by the wine, eager to learn why and how he had done it. Eventually Neal persuaded Jacques to receive him for a quick tasting at the end of the day; in the meantime, apparently Neal made a quick trip to Alsace and back (about a 5-hour round trip with a tasting in the middle, presumably). Tucked between Burgundy and the Swiss border, this small area in eastern France is a missing piece of the puzzle for many wine lovers. What to choose was such a dilemma as we needed a wine to go with everything and I was spoilt for choice. Domaine du Plican: Burgundy's d'Angerville in Jura - Decanter Unfortunately the bird died, but as a recognized Christian symbol of the time the town of Arbois took it on as its town crest. My answer to these questions could be no and no, but more accurately it should be partly. Franois Duvivier kindly took me to the vignerons favourite lunch place Bistrot des Claquets and it was a Wednesday. We let ourselves be surprised by the Poulsard variety, with a light ruby color that sometimes makes it look like ros, while Trousseau, more tannic and strongly colored, is distinguished by its aroma of red berries, spices and fresh ground pepper. Below is the first paragraph of my Domaine du Plican profile in my book, published in 2014. please see. What follows in an update on whats going on in the region. As he had for several years previously, Marin had been doing the Southern Hemisphere harvest over the years, he has worked among others with Spinifex in Barossa, Barn Cottage in Central Otago and Peter-Allan Finlaysons Crystallum in South Africa. That said, I must stress that they were the earliest true working partnership of man and woman in the Jura wine world that I came across. As widely reported, last December Jacques Puffeney let the cat out of the bag (early apparently according to his importer Neal Rosenthal) that he was selling most of his vineyards to Domaine du Plican, the Jura estate owned mainly by Guillaume, Marquis dAngerville. Many producers are small family businesses that practice organic and/or biodynamic viticulture, aware of the importance of looking after the land as well as making wines that speak of the region. Wink Lorch raises a glass to this colourful weekend, {"api":{"host":"https:\/\/pinot.decanter.com","authorization":"Bearer ZGYwNmM0N2QxMmJiNTc0M2EwYzJiZTgzNDRlODU5NjAwNzc5MDQxNmEyMjA0NmIwNWFhNzZkNzA0Y2MwZGY2Zg","version":"2.0"},"piano":{"sandbox":"false","aid":"6qv8OniKQO","rid":"RJXC8OC","offerId":"OFPHMJWYB8UK","offerTemplateId":"OFPHMJWYB8UK","wcTemplateId":"OTOW5EUWVZ4B"}}, {"location":"Keystone Header","subscribeText":"Subscribe Now","version":"2","menuWidgetTitle":"","myAccountLnk":"\/wine-reviews\/account","premiumLnk":"\/subscribe","menuLnks":{"2":{"text":"My Wines","href":"\/wine-reviews\/my-wines"}},"colors":{"text":"#ffffff","button":"#decc8f","link":"#ffffff"}}, Best sweet wines from around the world: 30 bottles to seek out, Decanter contributor Wink Lorch wins Best Drink Book at Andre Simon Awards, Picturesque Jura: a travel guide for wine lovers, Jura wine 'pope' Jacques Puffeney sells off vineyards, March releases on the Place de Bordeaux 2023, September releases 2022: full score table. It is believed that Thierry Moyne has sold La Balance; Jean-Paul Jeunet is likely to be retiring, apart from for special events, and handing over to his second who he has been working with for many years; Bistrot les Claquets is rumoured to be up for sale. Jura wines are definitely not just a fashion, they have now been around, doing well and growing in the US for almost ten years, Customers at Chambers Street Wines in NYC are still fascinated by Jura and indeed buying the Jura Wine book, but also interested in the next project . The book will be in the same style as the Jura Wine book but delving, at last, into the wines of Savoie and Bugey, and covering a few smaller Alpine areas further south. Domaine des Miroirs, Domaine des Murmures, Bruyre-Houillon: these are just some of the names that have been livening up our auctions for a couple of years now, bringing a breath of fresh air to what is often a question of tradition and prestige. The main photos that feature in this post, kindly provided by Mick Rock of Cephas, chief photographer for the book, were taken exactly eight years ago in the early summer of 2013, one that was slow to kick in, not so dissimilar to 2021. The natural movement is also taking a hold in the region, giving domains the chance to find success through a younger generation of eco-conscious and curious wine drinkers. The 2014 harvest was saved by a warm autumn, but it was too late for most of Pupillins Ploussard, ravaged by an insect. Popular Producers. Many Jura wines are rare and highly sought after, and some popular natural wine producers from the Jura region include L'Octavin, Domaine de La Tournelle, Stphane Tissot, Didier Grappe, Cavarodes, Domaine de la Touraize , Domaine Labet, Jean-Francois Ganevat, Caveau Val dAmour, and Domaine Overnoy-Houillon. The losses are still being fully assessed but follow on from bad frosts and low crops for other reasons too in both 2019 and 2017. Were now getting to see the next-generation effects of their work, with inspired new producers finding their feet in the industry.